Temple Tales : A millennium-old Temple Town

A time-capsule to the past

Sculptures collectively dating back more than a mega-annum (that's a million years, literally); architectural legacies that have withstood the test of time and tormentors, both; a town where even miniscule stones hold mammoth stories; and a river that has stood guard to protect them all.

Sounds like we are in a Dan Brown novel set in a European capital with plaques, pillars, and obelisks, doesn't it? Nothing could be farther from the assumption though. These enthralling doorways to the glorious architectural and spiritual past of humanity are found in a quaint little mountainous town of northern India. Located in the Kumaon region of the small hill-state of Uttarakhand, nestled among the boughs of centuries old Deodars, on the banks of a small river called Jataganga, lies the temple town of Jageshwar.

Where past is always 'present' and time stands still

Jageshwar is small one-horse town that exists because of the temples (yes, plural!). Usually, temples are built, because there is a town around them; however, at Jageshwar, the story reverses. Another interesting legend about the structures here is that whichever dynasty ruled Kumaon -- from the Katyuris to the Chands -- not only protected, but also only added to the beauty of these sites.

The town and the Temple

A collection of a whopping 125+ (yes, you read that right!) temples, Jageshwar is aptly known as Jageshwar Dham ('Dham' is a term derived from Sanskrit referring to the abode of Gods). The oldest of the temple sites are about a millennium and a half old, from the seventh century, while the 'youngest' entrants trace their heritage to the eighteenth century. The plaques below give more information on the dynasties that contributed to the sites -

Plaques established by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) detailing the temple histories

As the temples are now under the care of ASI, notices have been displayed to discourage any illegal encroachment

Spirituality meets Elegance and Style

The temple architecture is often cited as a classic example of Nagara style architecture, wherein the temple structures were usually built on a stone base and there would be steps leading up to it. The Jageshwar group of temples have several such temples mostly dedicated to Lord Shiva, while some dedicated to Goddess Durga, the nine planets ('nava grahas'). There is a Batuk Bhairav temple and a Kuber temple, bot located slightly away (a two-minute walk) from the main temple complex.

Views from the Eastern side of the main temple complex

Hope, tranquility, and reassurance

The Batuk Bhairava temple and the Kuber temple

The 'Parikrama' and the search

Rarely any Hindu shrine exists where the 'pooja' is considered complete without a 'parikrama' (circumambulation of the temple complex). Jageshwar is unique because the 'parikrama' does not traverse through a circular or a rectangular path. Rather, it involves a keen exercise of searching for the eternal peace (that one visits a temple for) via a non-linear, complex path.

Everyone wants a blessing. But, are you willing to work for it?

The 'Parikrama Path' (or the circumambulation of the temple complex) is not a straightforward round or rectangular path.

Rather, it is a motivational spiritual exercise, wherein you identify the centuries old abodes of gods, in a specific order no less.

And, believe me, once you do complete the searching, the identifying, and the traversing, your circumambulation culminates into a sense of satisfaction that can best be described as 'out of this world', literally so.

What lies beyond?

As Jageshwar is a temple town, there are other temples that are strewn about the the whole town. The biggest of thse is the Dandeshwar group of temples, which can be best described as a mini Jageshwar. Apart from Jageshwar and Dandeshwar groups, there are several other standalone temples all over the town.

Plaques detailing the history of 'Dandeshwar'

Dandeshwar group of temples

The sanctum sanctorum of the Dandeshwar group of temples.

A standalone temple. Jageshwar truly epitomizes "Jitne Kankar, Utne Shankar" (Each rock is an abode of god)

A Museum for the intellectual mind

The magnetic pull of this little confluence of spirituality, architecture, and history is perfectly complemented by a museum, located right in front of the main temple complex. Unfortunately, taking pictures inside the museum is not permitted. However, suffice it to say that while the artefacts inside would be worth millions, their value is priceless. What price can you put after all on an unparalleled experience that takes you back a thousand years, into the glorious sculptural heritage of India.

Some of the highlights of the museum are the 9th century idols of god Sun, Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati. Then, there are multiple idols of Lakuleesh, considered a Shaivite unmatched. In almost every idol, the gods and goddesses are accompanied by their entourage, thereby increasing the number of subjects in the sculpture and as a result, its intricacy. This, along with the diverseness in the postures carved out in different idols speaks volumes of the unique and flawless craftsmanship the sculptors of the time would have possessed.

I have never been to the Louvre or any other great museums in Europe. However, it would not be an exaggeration to say that the collective age and the delicately intricate artistry of the artefacts in this modest little three-room outfit would rival, and possbly trump, some of the world's greatest collections.

In a nutshell

Location - Near Almora, Uttarakhand GPS Coordinates - https://goo.gl/maps/ye1n7aB7dhHhKJed7 Uniqueness - A confluence of history, spirituality, exemplary architectural masonry, and unparalleled sculptural craftsmanship.

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Shikhar Sumeru

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